How to Potty Train Toddlers : Dealing with Potty Training Accidents

If your toddler has a potty training accident, it's very important to use positive reinforcement and avoid making them feel bad or embarrassed. Learn how to act after accidents with potty training in this free parenting tips video. Expert: Shelby Emmer Bio: Shelby Emmer has an Associates Degree in child development. She has been teaching preschool children for the past 4 years at Temple Isaiah in Los Angeles, California. Filmmaker: Devin Boddie

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Celeste walking funny after peeing her pants. Age two cute little girl

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Potty Training Pressure

www.funpottytraining.com Do you want to know why people get mad at their child during potty training? It's because there expectation rises over time. For example if you teach me an adult how to do something (potty training) then ask me to do it; you expect me to complete the task given. However; if I am two or three years old and you teach me something (potty training) then ask me to go potty; early on you will be more patient and forgiving if I don't meet the expectation. But once 20, 30 or 40+ days pass and I have not reached the expectation ie I am still wetting my pants you will not be so forgiving. Now add a pinch of worldly pressures into the mix * Your tired * Your getting pressure at work * Bills arrive daily * Your fighting with your spouse etc How patient will you be with your two year old who is still wetting their pants after 25 days? Don't worry in the next few minutes I will show you our proven easy to follow five step method that will allow you to potty train your child in less than 72 hours. Everyone knows that successful toilet training is easy once you have an easy to follow step-by-step method that guides you threw the whole process from start to finish. Get five free potty training videos at www.funpottytraining.com

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blaker and i talking about his pumpkin!! WARNING: we are in potty training mode, he does not have any pants on, and at one little second, he flashes you.

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From (say it like Miku!) "Niiiiiiico nico Douga!" *cute smile* www.nicovideo.jp This is a repost, for they removed the original. This video is based on a MAD video created from the well-known Japanese Toilet training video, with that Tiger family and the little one that winds up needing to take a leak and a dump. At the end of that vid is the scene that is parodied in this vid. We have Cirno as a little constipated kid heh heh. BILLY AND KAZUYA REFERENCE AT 0:32 ^Reason why I love the video, of course...and I've no idea why I like how Minoriko is drawn here...mmm sleeves.

What Sells Well at Flea Markets? Here's a Few Things to Consider to Ensure Your Success

Making money selling at flea markets and swap meets is quite easy but many people shy away from it because they are unsure of what to sell when they are starting out.

Most people have a limited amount of money available to spend on items to sell. They are quite often in such a position that they can not afford to tie up their money in items that take forever to sell, needing a rather quick turn-around.

Plus, it can be rather intimidating to many who have never sold at flea markets before. Having such a limited amount of money to spend on something that, for them, is untried and unproven, can make them hesitant to do so.

As I often tell my friends, it's a crap shoot. You pay your money and you take your chances, but there are ways to put the odds more in your favor to guarantee success.

Never try to sell something people do not need nor want.

There is a distinct difference between 'need' and 'want' and it's important that you know what that is. People do not always buy what they need, but they always buy what they want.

People need toilet paper, obviously. But will they always want toilet paper? No, especially if they already have enough at home.

But people will always want things that they don't really need, such as things that will make them happy, will make them look good, will make them feel better. will make them laugh, will make them more money.

Children need food, clothing, shelter and love. Do they 'need' a new toy every week? No, but they 'want' one and parents open the wallet and buy them because the parent feels better when the child is happy. Nobody appreciates a crying, screaming youngster! (And if they have two children, they can't just buy one toy because the kids will fight over it, so they buy two.)

Do father's really need a new wallet? Sometimes, yes, but usually no, but a new wallet is nice, better than the one they have. They will buy a new wallet simply because they 'want' one.

The same goes for women and shoes. Many women have ten pairs of shoes in their closet that they haven't touched in months, yet they 'want' another pair of shoes even though they do not 'need' another pair.

A new purse always makes a woman feel better, doesn't it?

Think of your base desires. People are the same. We all want to have more money, we all want to look good and feel good, be healthy, be happy, feel important, feel needed and loved.

Now think of items that accomplish those things. Makeup helps women look good and feel good about themselves. Clothing that makes us look good also makes us feel good. We always feel better in a brand new pair of shoes, don't we?

We love to be entertained. Movies will always sell. Most are on DVD yet a lot of older titles are only available on VHS tape, so VHS movies still sell!

Now let's take this one step further to increase sales and sell things that do not last long, things that are 'consumable', meaning your customers will use what they purchase from you, will run out and need to come back and buy more later.

Such as shampoo, skin lotions, perfume, makeup, printer ink and cartridges, paper products, food products, soda pop, etc.

Even DVDs are 'consumable' although they do not wear out quickly. People buy them, watch them a couple times and 'want' a different movie.

There are many items that are 'consumable'. I'm sure you can think of more.

Making a sale is good but there is a way to make even more money on each sale. That would be by selling items that go with other items.

It's called upselling.

People always need sunglasses. They break them, scratch them, lose them, and need another pair.

Since they scratch them, perhaps they would like to also purchase a case to put them in? So don't just sell sunglasses, sell sunglass cases, too! By boosting the amount of each sale, you'll boost your daily profits and be even more successful.

Same with shoes. Need an extra pair of shoestrings or a shoehorn to go with that?

What about this lovely belt to go with those pants?

Something else to consider is sizes. People come in lots of different sizes, so if you decide to sell shoes, you'll need them in many different sizes, making it rather expensive to get started.

The same goes for clothing, many different sizes. Arms and legs are never the same length for two different people.

Children's clothing, however, may be worth getting into even though children also come in different shapes and sizes because children's clothing almost never wears out before the child outgrows them. If the child isn't quite large enough to fill that shirt or coat, they'll 'grow into it'. Many people sell used children's clothing at flea markets and swap meets.

Specialize. Some vendors, especially those who sell used items, sell everything and anything. They are not known for any particular type of item. Sellers of brand new items, however, would do well to specialize in a certain 'type' of merchandise.

If you sell DVD's, for example, it would be ill-advised for you to also sell tools, clothing and all kinds of other things. Selling one particular type of merchandise will help boost your bottom line as your customers will tend to think of you as an expert in that merchandise. If I'm looking for a particular movie, I'd tend to see the DVD man rather than that guy who sells some DVDs plus a whole bunch of other stuff. The DVD man would know more about what I'm looking for and would be better able to help me find it.

If you also want to sell tools, car stereos, clothing and what not, why not spin each off as a separate business? Rent a space for each of those 'types' of merchandise.

It's always good to be the only one in the flea market selling a certain 'type' of merchandise, but selling the same thing as everyone else is not always a bad idea.

Walking through a flea market, notice what the vendors are selling, and also notice how many vendors are selling the same type of merchandise. There may be five or ten different people selling DVDs. Why are they selling the same thing? Because they make money. If they weren't making money they wouldn't keep returning each weekend and setting up.

Larger flea markets can easily support several people selling the same thing. Some people will buy from you before they see the other guys selling the same thing and vice-versa.

There is no one particular item to sell at flea markets, there are many. The most important things to remember when deciding upon what to sell would be if it is something people will 'want' (not just need), and how easily you can get more when you need to restock your display.

One last thing to consider: new merchandise outsells used merchandise two to one. New items such as computers, stereos and the like also come with paperwork, warranties and the feel of 'new' that you never get with something that is used.

Selling new merchandise also means getting more of the very same items is as simple as making a phone call.

Did you ever imagine there could be so many different things to consider when deciding on what to sell at flea markets?!

Hopefully, you will now be able to spend your money confidently on something that will provide the quick turn around you are looking for and allow you to become an instant success.

Allen Farlow is an expert author and also a successful professional flea market and swap meet vendor.

His latest report reveals two secret principles that can change your life. Wealthy people use them all the time, why not you? Get this free report here: http://www.allenfarlow.com

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Potty Training - EC Trainer Stash simplebaby.com

Ready for potty learning or practicing elimination communication? Why use disposable pullups when cloth training pants are so cute, and so affordable! Plus potty learning is easier and faster in cloth. Shannon at Simple Baby: Here's my trainer stash and some pics and reviews. Includes TotWraps, Trimsies, Mother of Eden, Mothergoose Design Dribble Drawers, Piddle Poddles, Weewave swim diaper,Sandy's by Motherease, Megaroos, Batik Bum, and Tinkle Time Trainers by Ladder Hill Designs. For cloth diapers, cloth trainers and other natural baby products visit www.simplebaby.com Check us out on Facebook at http Twitter - www.twitter.com Our blog at blog.simplebaby.com

Four Essentials of Elk Antler Shed Hunting

Every spring thousands of outdoor enthusiasts head into the mountains in search of bull elk antler sheds. Most folks pick up 2 or 3 every season after spending hours combing the forest and mountains for sheds. I have lived in the eastern White Mountains of Arizona since the early 1990's and have been hunting antler sheds every spring. I generally pick up 30-50 sheds a season and average one about every 2 1/2 hours. Here are some tips on how you can increase your odds of finding bull elk antler sheds.

OUTERWEAR
Mountain weather can be inclimate and change with very little notice. You will need to prepare yourself in advance by wearing the proper outerwear. First off, you need to be wearing a really good pair of boots. The terrain is steep and the footing is loose. Hiking shoes just won't do the job. Hiking boots are better, but your best bet is a good leather Gore-Tex hunting boot. I prefer Danner Boots, they are comfortable and sturdy. Next is a regular pair of denim blue jeans. You are constantly going through brush, butt sliding, kneeling and occasionally slipping and falling. Nylon pants get tore up pretty fast. For a top layer, a wick dry tee-shirt along with a technical nylon or fleece top will work very well. You want to stay warm, but allow the sweat to be wicked away. It's also a good idea to wear a bright color on top especially if you're shed hunting with a partner, you need to be able to see each other from a distance. Camo is generally not a good idea. A good baseball style hat is also essential to keep the sun out of your eyes. I wear a long bill hat from my wife's fly fishing guide business. This is mainly because you will not be wearing sunglasses, sunglasses tint the natural surrounding and you will not see the antlers laying on the ground unless they're old white chalks. Sunglasses also make it difficult to use binoculars effectively.

EQUIPMENT
There are three essential items that you should carry with you at all times when you're shed hunting. The first is a good pair of binoculars. I use a pair of 12x50's that can be purchased for around $100-150. You also want to purchase the over the shoulder straps for the bino's ($15). These will hold the glasses close to your chest and keep them from banging on rocks and hanging up in the brush. Next is a sidearm, if allowed in your state. You will be hiking into prime mountain lion country. I carry a.45 titanium revolver and it has saved my life twice by firing warning shots above charging lions. I have never killed one. (Perhaps a future story?) I simply will not go deep into the mountains without a sidearm and will not allow hunting companions to do so either. Finally you will need a 2000-3000 cu.in. backpack with straps that will clip and unclip the antlers onto the back of the pack. Preferably, also a bladder reservoir with a bite tube for hydration.

Remember, the points always are packed away from you and depending on the size of the antler, the button may point up or down....try not to let the points dig into your butt, or bang against your head. I can carry (3-4) antlers in this manner, then one in each hand if I find a real honey hole. Your pack should include: extra hardshell, in case of inclimate weather, radios, if traveling with more than one person (essential), headlamp, matches, map, GPS (optional) first aid kit, utility tool like a Leatherman, sunscreen, toilet paper, extra liter of water and your lunch. In some areas, such as the Blue Wilderness, I carry a lightweight climbing harness, a couple of carabiners, rappel device and a 100' length of static rappelling rope for getting myself out of tricky situations.

RESEARCH THE FOUR ESSENTIALS
Now that you've assembled all of your outerwear and gear, it's almost time to go elk antler shed hunting. However, to prevent you from wandering from mountain to canyon without purpose, you will need a good map of the area. The best are USGS topo maps available online - we like to laminate ours. I also like to utilize Google Maps and Google Earth. National Forest maps are also handy for finding roads for access into remote areas, but most the side roads are unmarked. The main thing is to have a "search plan" and stick with the plan. Your plan should reflect the four essentials mentioned below. Always let someone else know where you're going and when you'll be back. A note on the kitchen counter to my wife usually works for me. You also may want to carry a GPS and mark the location of your vehicle before you go trotting into a remote area.

As you plan your elk antler shed hunting adventure you should be thinking about four essential items: Security, Access, Conditions and Terrain. Any successful shed hunting trip will require all four of these items to be present. If only one essential element is missing, you will have very little luck finding sheds and likely be skunked. All we are doing is increasing the probability of finding an elk antler shed in a given area.

SECURITY
I believe that elk antlers are painful before they fall off. There is no scientific evidence that I am aware of to support my belief, but nonetheless I firmly believe this to be a true fact. The level of pain may be different for each bull elk, from a minor toothache to an abscessed tooth. The level of pain may also vary with age. So, take a minute and consider how you personally feel when you're sick with a toothache, say maybe a root canal. Generally, you want to relax as much as possible, stay warm and comfortable, very little social contact, have water and food close-by, maybe sleep a little more than usual. Most of all, you really don't want to be bothered. You just want to get this over with and get on with your life. My contention is that is exactly how a bull elk feels when those big antlers start to loosen up. They want to be safe and secure.

So, where would a bull elk feel safe and secure? The question is probably better asked where they wouldn't feel safe and secure. Well, to be honest, definitely not around their girl friends, the cow elk. If I see loads and loads of fresh cow elk scat, I'm probably not in a good area for finding sheds. The bulls sometimes gather into smaller groups of 4-8 when they are about to drop, but most of the time this is a solitary event when it actually happens. They also do not want to be cold, they generally like to be as warm and comfortable as possible. I generally do not find elk sheds on north facing slopes unless I'm working a large mountain with deep backbone type ridges...even then, odds are far greater on the sunny sided slopes. This next one is very important, they also tend to avoid deep thick brushy areas, which are prevalent on north facing mountains. Remember, if you buy into my belief, these antlers hurt. They do not want them to be knocking against trees and bushes...kinda like stubbing a toe that you've already stubbed. However, the areas may be short and brushy, like a live oak forest with the height of the oak around 5'. This allows them to move around and carry the antlers above the brush, but have the ability to lie down in between them to seek protection.

The astute shed hunter would probably say, "Yea okay, but I've found a few sheds in wide open meadows". My answer would be, "Sure, they are traveling to and from their water source and feeding area from a secure area". Elk do not get delivered pizza when they are sick. In addition, you will typically find only one side in a meadow...they've already dropped the other one in their secure area. Finally, there is one last important point to be made about security - mountain lions. When a bull elk beds down, it's usually not in a place where it can be easily attacked. They like to have good field of vision, which means quite often they like it higher up on the mountain. Overhanging rock ledges that they can tuck under are also places that always need to be searched. Think about when you were young and about to go to bed, but you have a tooth coming lose, you can't sleep. Your parents would come into your bedroom and pull the loose tooth out - I always howled after the doorknob and the string trick! If a bull elk is bedding down and those antlers are hurting just enough that they cannot sleep, they will knock both of them off where they are bedding down. A matched bull elk antler set is almost the best possible find...next to a winterkill.

Good examples of secure areas are drainages and just below ridgelines. Please keep in mind, these areas can be quite large, sometimes a square mile.

CONDITIONS
This is the easiest of the essential elements and the one in which I see the most mistakes. Environmental conditions have a tremendous effect on where a bull elk may drop an antler shed. The main condition is weather and the other is the time of the year. I am going to make another bold assumption that is not based on scientific fact, but I know this to be true. A bull elk will not drop antlers in snow. However, they actually like being close to snow, specifically the snow line on a mountain. If you can determine where the snow line is on a mountain at the time of year when the antler dropped, you have saved yourself a tremendous amount of hunting in the wrong places (most common error). Typically, when I find a fresh brown antler shed the first thing I look at is my wristwatch altimeter and determine the elevation in which I picked up the shed. (A good reason to carry a GPS as well) Most of the time, there is no snow where I picked up the shed. I am attempting to determine the snow line on the mountain at the time of the drop. From that point forward, the highest probability of finding another shed is either 150' above or below where you found the first shed. This means you are zig-zagging up and down the mountain. However, when you find your second shed on the same mountain, you are now adding to your database of knowledge to further refine your elevation search area. In the eastern White Mountains of Arizona and west Central New Mexico almost all of my sheds are found between 8300-9500.' You will need to determine the average in your area in accordance with the snow line.

The other half of the equation is time of year. Bull elk generally drop their antlers over a 6-8 week period. In our region this is early March to late April. However, there is always a 10 day or so period when the majority drop their antlers. Large elk drop their antlers first. I consider a large elk anything over a 50" main beam - usually a 6X. The medium-sized ones are next, around 36" main beam and then the small 3X are last. Many shed hunters make the mistake of going out too early. Our area is packed with shed hunters early in the season, few are found. My early season adventures are usually on a sunny ridge line with 12x50 binoculars and a lunch. I'm watching the migration patterns and by the way, picking out the biggest racks.

Try to limit your search to areas a couple hundred feet below the snowline, using a zig-zag pattern during the time of year when they are actually shedding their antlers.

ACCESS
I have to include access as an essential element since this is a somewhat competitive adventure. If there are a lot of folks in the area in which you intend to hunt for sheds, you will likely not be successful. This is a major violation of the essential security element. However, it is important enough to warrant its own category. You may see bull elk in areas populated by humans, but they really do not like to shed their antlers unless they are traveling to and from a secure area. Think about it this way...if an ATV can get into your area, it's not a good place to hunt for sheds. Bull elk do not like roaring ATV engines or diesel trucks for that matter. They like it secure, comfortable and quiet.

I sometimes utilize an ATV to get close to an area that I'll be hunting sheds. But that ATV is typically parked at least a mile away from my target area. You do not want to spook them away if they haven't dropped yet. You really do need to go in on foot, disturb as little of the area as possible and leave with your bounty. I have witnessed prime areas ruined by careless individuals.

This is a competitive adventure. If there are a lot of folks going into your area. It may be picked clean every year. If the access is easy, the masses will show up to hunt antlers. If the access is difficult, you probably have your own private hunting ground. Here's another general rule of thumb, if a rancher is grazing cattle in your area, it's probably not a good place to hunt sheds. Cowboys ride fence lines every spring once the snow is gone, they know their cattle allotment section like the back of their hand. Basically, you've had experts in your area for years picking up sheds.

The more remote and inaccessible by any type of vehicle including horses, the higher the probability of finding elk antler sheds.

TERRAIN
Elk can drop their antlers almost anywhere, we are only interested in the areas in which there is the highest probability of a "drop zone". Quite often, this is where a bull elk will bed down. It also may be where they travel too and from a secure area. However, it is always an area in which they are familiar. When I go into a new area to "develop" I am looking for a specific type of terrain to match my other essential elements. I'm also looking for bull elk scat and tree rubs. Hey, wait a minute!! Bull elk rub the velvet off their antlers well after they shed. I agree, but they also tend to gravitate towards areas of familiarity. So, as I look at the ground and the rubbings on the trees, I'm also scanning the horizons with my binoculars...because I'm always looking for a specific type of terrain.

The best possible terrain is directional and prioritized in this order, south, southwest, west, southeast and east facing slopes. North facing slopes as mentioned earlier are almost always a no go, unless it is a large mountain with steep ridgelines that have sun-washed side canyons. As yet another general rule of thumb, grassy slopes are better than rocky slopes. If the slope is all rock, it's probably not a good area. It has to have some grass with the rock...all grass with a few rocks is best.

Some of my friends kid me about have legs like a T-Rex. This is probably due to the fact that most of the sheds that I find are located on slopes between 30 and 50 degrees. If you're unfamiliar with degrees of slope angle, a 12/12 pitch roof is 45 degrees. A lot of churches have steep roof lines similar to the terrain in which elk antler sheds are found. Obviously it takes a lot of determination to work your way up a steep slope hunting an antler shed. However, this is generally a secure area, with lots of visibility and often near a water source below in a canyon. The good news is, you get to stop every 50' or so, take a break and scan the area with your binoculars.

A typical search pattern on a steep south-facing grassy slope would go something like this...First pass is the ridgeline itself, taking your time to look down into the slope and then back just off the ridgeline. The next pass may be 20-40' below the ridgeline and usually at least one or two more passes even lower. However, if you're just going to make one pass, you need to utilize a zig-zag pattern to cover as much area as possible. The whole time, your thinking about security issues for the elk, environmental conditions in the area during the time the snow line was present and access in regards to the remoteness of the area.

LAST WORDS
Please do not get discouraged if you read all of this information and do not immediately find an elk antler shed although all four essential elements are present. This is meant to be a fun guide to increase your chances of finding shed antlers. From the outset, you should consider your mission to develop areas where you know that they will be dropping. I have found hundreds and hundreds of elk sheds, 70% of them come from a dozen areas that took me years to explore and develop. I go into those areas three times each - early, mid and late season.

I do not sell any of my antler sheds. They are either gifts to family and friends or they end up in my workshop becoming lamps, end tables or candle holders. A hundred or so adorn the gateway to our mountain home.

AUTHOR'S NOTE
The eastern White Mountains of Arizona include the communities of Alpine, Nutrioso and Greer. The 538,000 acre Wallow Fire (Summer 2010) burned over 850 square miles of this beautiful area. We lost our home for 15 years along with two businesses due to the irresponsibility and negligence of the Apache National Forest Management Team. We presently reside 300 miles away at the South Rim of the Grand Canyon.

Eric Krueger

http://www.AlpineNutriosoRealEstate.com

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How to Remove Stains in Leather Seats

You left the car window down or the sunroof open and there's a water stain in your car's leather seat....or your girlfriend spilled here red wine in your leather car seat on a night out on the town....or your kids decided they were a soon to be artist and tried their techniques out on your leather car seat with a pen, arrggg. Got kids myself, so feel your pain. Stain removal in leather seats can be tough, here's a few tricks to help get you going.

As a professional leather repair specialist I'm here to tell you that there are not to many products that can be used on a leather car seat that won't remove the finish before removing the stain. Most leather in today's cars is a finished leather with a water borne urethane leather dye applied to it and is pretty susceptible to chemicals and can be removed pretty easily with a solvent cleaner. So when in doubt call a professional.

Water stains in Leather Seat....this is a pretty hard one to get rid of. I recently had reader send me an email on how he could get the water stains out of his car after leaving his sunroof open. This part is kinda for him considering I think I lost his email with pictures, I did get to see them though, so not all was lost. The pictures showed a crease that ran along the middle of the leather seat where the water had puckered the leather. In this type of situation there are two things we could do, one is sand the crease out and with some fillers and dye make the seat new again, this is where a leather professional comes in to play, or replacement of the section that is creased, that's where an upholstery shop comes in. In these type of situations there aren't any leather conditioners or cleaners in the world that will remove a creased or puckered leather, what happens is the actual structure of the fibers in the leather have been altered and what you see is what you have.

If the water hasn't puckered the leather and has just left a stain, a little trick I learned from my good friend Dwain Berlin with Leather Craft Secrets, and you go to your bread box in the kitchen for this one. Take a piece of bread and roll it up into a ball and rub and blot the area with the bread ball, works pretty good. Dwain has a lot of great advice for leather care, and if your interested in some great fun with leather go check out his book, it's quite impressive and I myself learned a few things.

Most of the time water will just evaporate and with no problems and the stains will disappear. If your car leather gets wet dry it as best you can with a towel and then condition it with your Lexol Conditioner. One way to dry the cars leather is by leaving the windows down and setting it in the sun to dry, or crack the windows and turn your car on with the heat on full blast and let it run for about 30 minutes. I'm not real hip on that one cause it's a waste of gas but it does work to dry things out better. But always condition, some rain waters are pretty dirty and harsh and the leather needs those extra nutrients to keep it soft.

If the stains are just too bad then new leather dye is the only way to bring it back then call your local leather professional like me to come and make it new again.
Mold Stains in Leather Seat....Or mildew which ever. This one kinda goes along with the water stains. Take and mix a cup of water and a cup of rubbing alcohol and mix them together, take a towel and rub a small amount of the solution onto the stained areas, until the spot is gone, again watch for dye lift, this trick works pretty well and usually removes the mildew pretty quick without dye removal.

Food Stains in Leather Seat....This one can be an easy one if you just don't eat in your car, but I'm just as guilty as most and eat on the run. A mild dish soap and warm water with a rag or scotch brite pad will do the trick in most cases. Most automotive leather is finished and food stuffs usually will wipe right off. If you run into a stubborn one though try a little all-purpose degreaser on a rag, don't rub too much or dye may lift. If the stain on your leather car seat from food doesn't come up with this then the dye from the food has penetrated the fibers of the leather and has dyed it, so it's time for a professional leather dye job.

Aniline leather or NuBuck leather is a different story though, thats the soft stuff you see as an inserted piece usually in the middle of the seats. You can use the soapy solution but water spots sometimes show up, so a special cleaner works best for this kind of leather. One I suggest is from the guys over at Leather Magic, they have a NuBuck Leather Care Kit that is the answer to all your NuBack needs. This kit includes cleaners and conditioners for the soft stuff, this type of leather is delicate and should be treated as such. Don't use your usual leather cleaners and conditioners on this type of leather due to fact of the oils in them will damage the look of the leather, then no more soft feeling NuBuck, so definitely check out Leather Magics NuBuck Kit.

Ink, Marker, and Crayon on Leather Seat....Urgent!!! Get to it as soon as you can! If the ink is fresh you have a better chance of removing it from the leather then not. Rubbing alcohol, with a little bit of acetone added will sometimes get it. I've heard of hairspray, tried it with not much luck. Usually when an ink pen and leather come together they marry and don't split to easily. Ink is a dye and is made to penetrate whatever it comes into contact with. Most ink spots I've ran into I've usually had to dye the leather to cover the spot.

Crayon on a leather seat can be a booger if it's melted in the seat, you can try this but be careful not to burn or pucker your leather. Take an iron and a paper towel and lay the paper towel over the crayon and with a low heat rub the iron over the paper towel over the crayon. The crayon will melt into the paper towel, move the towel around to clean spots until the crayon is gone, a little of rubbing alcohol should remove the remaining. This trick works on carpet and cloth too. If they're just marks on the leather seat a little soap and water should do the trick or even a little rubbing alcohol on a towel works good to. If all fails there is a product from Protective Products Corp. that is all natural with no solvents that will remove crayon and lipstick it's called Solv-It, but just like anything try a spot in an unsuspecting spot to see if it removes dye.

One last trick that I've read about around the net and am in the process of testing it, but it the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser, they do work around the house, so why not the car too. I've removed crayon and marks on my walls before with them, I do notice it take a little paint with it though, but they do work. If you use one, be careful and don't go ape sh$#, rub it then look, rub it then look, they will remove dye, so when using it take your time and check it as you go.

Sweat Stains in Leather Seat ....Salt stains from sweat can be pretty gross looking, but there is a little trick. Take and make a solution of 3 parts vinegar and one part water and wet a towel and rub the area clean, the vinegar breaks down the and helps to remove the stain.

Paint on Leather Seat....Paint removal on a leather car seat, well that ones a hard one. If it has dried it's probably there to stay. If it's a water color, just use soap and water to remove it. Latex house paint, you can try a little Goof Off but keep in mind this is a solvent and can damage the leather seat and remove dye. I have in the past been able to take my pocket knife and scrape it off. Wet the area first with a little water and lightly try to lift the paint off with your knife or even a razor blade, but don't cut the leather. Mostly though this really doesn't work without removing the dye underneath, but I have had luck sometimes. If its car paint, try a little paint reducer on a rag, but just wipe lightly and don't soak the area with the reducer. Solvents and leather seats just don't mix.

My best advice to all when it come to stains in your leather car seats, and that is to be conscious of what you do, try to keep our little Picasso's pen free, keep our food out of our cars, roll the windows up and sunroofs closed, and always remember to treat the leather with your Lexol Conditioner on a regular basis, this helps to keep the leather car seats protected and soft and makes it easier to get the spills and accidents from turning into disasters.
But always remember that we leather repair professionals are here to save those leather car seats and bring them back to there original state. If you have any questions don't hesitate to contact me for all your leather repair needs.

Mike Warren
http://theinteriorguyllc.com
The Interior Guy, LLC., Automotive Interior Repair
I've been in the business for a long time and know a lot of the ends and outs of repairing interiors, from leather and vinyl repair to plastic repair and dyeing of all interior trim parts including carpet and cloth. Need some advice or a tip to fix your automotive interior, I've put together some really helpful material with some great products I recommend and use in my repairs. Visit theinteriorguyllc.com for more articles just like this one.